A Postcard from Kuala Lumpur

Read Me

Adventures in Thailand

Cooking with Poo cover

Cooking with Poo | A Bangkok Cookery Class | A Recipe for Coconut Chicken Soup

I did a cookery class with Poo. Go on. Say it. You know you want to. I don’t mind. Go on. “That must have been shit”. Feel better? Yes, I cooked with Poo. And I liked it. (Unfortunately I can’t take credit for that excellent *cough* gag. It was printed on our aprons). Poo is the affectionate nickname for Khun Saiyuud Diwong, a long-term resident of Khlong Toey, the largest informal settlement in Bangkok. In…

cycling bangkok cover

Cycling into Bangkok’s Jungle | A bike tour with ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist

Why is it when you tell a guide you are terrified of snakes at the beginning of a tour, and they later point a big crate of them out to you, they look surprised when you start crying and shaking? Seriously? I was on a bike tour, and we were cycling down a tiny alleyway in an informal settlement under a railway track, when my guide stopped beside a brick box with an iron grate…

Bangrak Cover

A Food and Culture Tour around Historic Bangrak with Bangkok Food Tours

Thai people often greet each other with the phrase kin khao rue jang? It literally translates to ‘have you eaten?’ That is how important food is to them. Not ‘how are you?’, or ‘how’s your family?’, but ‘have you eaten?’ No wonder I like it here so much. This was explained to me on one of my first days in Bangkok by Nushi (I really hope I’m spelling it right!), my guide for a morning’s…

Tales from Myanmar

IL Cover

A Tour of Inle Lake | Thoughts on Sustainability

A red and blue school bag hanging from a wooden post, reflected in the water. A woman, squatting on one of the wooden steps leading from the water up to her house, washing plates in a pale blue plastic bowl. The sound of pop music wafting in and out of earshot with the breeze. A tiny boy, standing at one end of a long wooden boat, carefully rowing between the houses. A man leaning over…

Kalaw cover

Kalaw, Myanmar

Kalaw feels very much like an Alpine town. Only with temples tipped with gold. And monks in burgundy robes. And a few extra centimetres of mercury in the thermometer. Ok, so it might not sound very Alpine-like, but trust me on this. The centre is ringed by chalet-like huts with wooden shutters and verandas, built on stilts dug deep into the hillside. The mountains are rolling and covered in a dense forest which gives them…

Balloon cover 2

In Photos: A Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Bagan, Myanmar, with Oriental Ballooning

There are two questions that tourists ask other tourists in Myanmar: One, “Did you trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake?” (I didn’t, more on that soon); and two, “Did you do a hot air balloon ride over Bagan?” (I did). If the answer to the last one is yes, then the follow up question is always “was it worth it?”. And my answer, post-flight, was always strongly in the affirmative. Yes, it is a sizeable…

ON THE IMPORTANCE OF POOTLING: BAGAN, MYANMAR

Read Me

Stylish Stays

Cover 2

A Cool and Contemporary Homestay in Bangkok | Loog Choob | Homestay Review

So far this is the only place that I have been back to – I think that says a lot! It’s where I chose for Bella and I to stay when she came to Bangkok for the weekend. This was partly because of how much I love this homestay, and partly because of the location – which is really good for sightseeing, if you don’t mind walking a bit (we don’t). Overview: Occupying one of…

Ariyasom Villa cover

AriyasomVilla Bangkok | A beautiful and relaxing 1940s Villa | Boutique Hotel Review

Whenever I’m shown my room at a hotel I classify as a “treat night”, I always try to act nonchalant. I arrange my face into one that says “oh, I stay in these places all the time” (I hope). “It has its own private plunge pool? Sure. Two sinks? Well that’s just to be expected really. There’s a minibar. Hmm, looks decent enough.” Meanwhile the voice in my head goes something like this: “OH MY…

J no 14 cover

A Stylish and Affordable Bangkok B&B | J No. 14 | B&B Review

This B&B was the first place I stayed at in Bangkok and it still remains firmly on my favourites list. Overview: A converted warehouse on the other side of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya, this oh so stylish B&B, which I found on AirBnb, was decorated by the owners’ son, who has just graduated from interior design school. It’s very cool, and if I used the word funky I would use it here (I don’t….

Pages from my Travel Diary

hard solo

The Hardest Days of Solo Travel | Travel Diary

The last couple of days have been tough. And not for any particular reason really. But this is something I’m realising about solo travel: it’s not the days when something, or everything, is going wrong that are the toughest. I can cope with those days. I dig deep. I batter up. I go into auto-pilot. Something needs sorting, and I’m bloody well going to sort it. They’re the days I feel strong. Brave. When I…

top 10 2

The Top 10 Joys and Sorrows of a Solo Traveller

The Top 10 Joys of a Solo Traveller: Dancing around a really nice hotel room in your knickers to Taylor Swift’s Shake it Off. Ordering another flat white in a nice coffee bar just so you can finish your very good book. Spending 45 minutes walking in the opposite direction from your guesthouse trying to find the street food vendor you came across the night before when you got lost and who you forgot to make…

12266659683_8e4102b9e2_b-2

I’m going travelling. Gulp.

I’m going travelling. Indefinitely. As in I have no idea when I will be back. Maybe a month. Maybe two. More likely twelve at the very least. I’m going to travel until I stop enjoying it or I run out of money. Whichever comes first. Oh, and I leave tomorrow. While it’s been in the pipeline since the Summer, it only became an actual feasible, this-is-going-to-happen plan just before Christmas when I finally exchanged on…

Blogroll

One Petronas tower from the other Petronas tower.

A Postcard from Kuala Lumpur

I love an underdog. I really do. I love rooting for the one no one thinks will make it. Supporting those others don’t. And if there was ever an underdog city, it’s Kuala Lumpur. It’s not that people hate it, it’s more that people just don’t seem to love it. It’s the mousey girl at school who everyone knows the name of, but no one knows anything about (me). When I spoke to other travellers…

Read More
Cover 2

A Cool and Contemporary Homestay in Bangkok | Loog Choob | Homestay Review

So far this is the only place that I have been back to – I think that says a lot! It’s where I chose for Bella and I to stay when she came to Bangkok for the weekend. This was partly because of how much I love this homestay, and partly because of the location – which is really good for sightseeing, if you don’t mind walking a bit (we don’t). Overview: Occupying one of…

Read More
IL Cover

A Tour of Inle Lake | Thoughts on Sustainability

A red and blue school bag hanging from a wooden post, reflected in the water. A woman, squatting on one of the wooden steps leading from the water up to her house, washing plates in a pale blue plastic bowl. The sound of pop music wafting in and out of earshot with the breeze. A tiny boy, standing at one end of a long wooden boat, carefully rowing between the houses. A man leaning over…

Read More
hard solo

The Hardest Days of Solo Travel | Travel Diary

The last couple of days have been tough. And not for any particular reason really. But this is something I’m realising about solo travel: it’s not the days when something, or everything, is going wrong that are the toughest. I can cope with those days. I dig deep. I batter up. I go into auto-pilot. Something needs sorting, and I’m bloody well going to sort it. They’re the days I feel strong. Brave. When I…

Read More
Ariyasom Villa cover

AriyasomVilla Bangkok | A beautiful and relaxing 1940s Villa | Boutique Hotel Review

Whenever I’m shown my room at a hotel I classify as a “treat night”, I always try to act nonchalant. I arrange my face into one that says “oh, I stay in these places all the time” (I hope). “It has its own private plunge pool? Sure. Two sinks? Well that’s just to be expected really. There’s a minibar. Hmm, looks decent enough.” Meanwhile the voice in my head goes something like this: “OH MY…

Read More
Kalaw cover

Kalaw, Myanmar

Kalaw feels very much like an Alpine town. Only with temples tipped with gold. And monks in burgundy robes. And a few extra centimetres of mercury in the thermometer. Ok, so it might not sound very Alpine-like, but trust me on this. The centre is ringed by chalet-like huts with wooden shutters and verandas, built on stilts dug deep into the hillside. The mountains are rolling and covered in a dense forest which gives them…

Read More
Cooking with Poo cover

Cooking with Poo | A Bangkok Cookery Class | A Recipe for Coconut Chicken Soup

I did a cookery class with Poo. Go on. Say it. You know you want to. I don’t mind. Go on. “That must have been shit”. Feel better? Yes, I cooked with Poo. And I liked it. (Unfortunately I can’t take credit for that excellent *cough* gag. It was printed on our aprons). Poo is the affectionate nickname for Khun Saiyuud Diwong, a long-term resident of Khlong Toey, the largest informal settlement in Bangkok. In…

Read More
J no 14 cover

A Stylish and Affordable Bangkok B&B | J No. 14 | B&B Review

This B&B was the first place I stayed at in Bangkok and it still remains firmly on my favourites list. Overview: A converted warehouse on the other side of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya, this oh so stylish B&B, which I found on AirBnb, was decorated by the owners’ son, who has just graduated from interior design school. It’s very cool, and if I used the word funky I would use it here (I don’t….

Read More
cycling bangkok cover

Cycling into Bangkok’s Jungle | A bike tour with ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist

Why is it when you tell a guide you are terrified of snakes at the beginning of a tour, and they later point a big crate of them out to you, they look surprised when you start crying and shaking? Seriously? I was on a bike tour, and we were cycling down a tiny alleyway in an informal settlement under a railway track, when my guide stopped beside a brick box with an iron grate…

Read More
La Maison cover

La Maison Birmane, Nyangshwe | Boutique Hotel Review

I got stuck in the loo. No jokes. I had to stand on the toilet, open the thin, high window and call out to a lovely young girl washing pots outside the house next door. She didn’t understand me at first. She thought I was just waving. It took me about five minutes of very bad miming – my skills being impaired by 1) having to balance on the loo seat, and 2) the very…

Read More
Balloon cover 2

In Photos: A Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Bagan, Myanmar, with Oriental Ballooning

There are two questions that tourists ask other tourists in Myanmar: One, “Did you trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake?” (I didn’t, more on that soon); and two, “Did you do a hot air balloon ride over Bagan?” (I did). If the answer to the last one is yes, then the follow up question is always “was it worth it?”. And my answer, post-flight, was always strongly in the affirmative. Yes, it is a sizeable…

Read More
Bangrak Cover

A Food and Culture Tour around Historic Bangrak with Bangkok Food Tours

Thai people often greet each other with the phrase kin khao rue jang? It literally translates to ‘have you eaten?’ That is how important food is to them. Not ‘how are you?’, or ‘how’s your family?’, but ‘have you eaten?’ No wonder I like it here so much. This was explained to me on one of my first days in Bangkok by Nushi (I really hope I’m spelling it right!), my guide for a morning’s…

Read More